Javier Olleros

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Culler de Pau - The Restaurant

Nominated as Best New Restaurantat Madrid Fusion 2010, the Culler de Pau Restaurant is undoubtedly one of the most pleasant surprises in the Galician gastronomic season. Javier Olleros is embarked on a new and stylish culinary adventurethat needs to be closely observed. Ten tables can be found in a cutting-edge building with a very minimalist design, combining a bright, almost blinding, white colour, wood and glass, which is shaped in huge windows overlooking the mouth of the Arousa’s inlet and allowing us to see the islets of Noro and Vionta, the town of Ribeiraand the unique outlook of the mountain range of Barbanza from O Grove.

A contemporary and simple menu is served here, where life in the kitchen and dining room goes remarkable smoothly just two months after the restaurant opening. Timing, temperature and service combine accordingly as though it was a restaurant with years of experience – something quite unusual! The sun comes in through this nearly translucent building and the dishes are beautiful, harmonious and decorated with little plants from the surrounding fields. In this regard, the plate set-up is dynamic, with sauces and foams that drive your eyes along lines that lead to the main ingredient. The result is a Galician-rooted cuisine but that has influences from all the cuisines experienced by the staff in other restaurants. If you want to familiarise with it, we recommend you to try the tasting menu.

It is somewhat surprising to find a new restaurant starting in business from the very top, such as the Culler de Pau restaurant, which exhibits an unusually high level. Its work is full of references to a good deal of the new Galician cuisine but there is little doubt that it will be interesting to see how this restaurant finds its own gastronomic waythrough a privileged environment, when it comes to seafood excellence,such as O Grove.

And for the food lovers, this is a nice display of optimism; how to make haute cuisinein apparently tough times for catering ventures. A new generation of highly skilful chefsaware of their roots is entering the catering market with their own businesses, therefore promoting the gastronomic diversity of the country.

Keep your eyes on the Culler de Pau people. They’ll have people talking. They certainly won me as a customer.

Manuel Gago